可能是最好的中文时尚播客
DeepSurface深度肤浅
Claim This Podcastby Jiazhi_
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5 episodes
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Recent Episodes
June 20, 2023
DS004：秀场音乐，从入门到精通（下）
<p>因为两位嘉宾们聊high了，所以本期节目从一集扩容到了两集！</p><p>两位时装与音乐双修的全才嘉宾：音乐制作人Kurt（豆瓣ID：kurttheripprt），和最近沉迷买碟的莎莎（微博：莎老师Sarah），持续强势输出。怎么回事，聊得比上集还要精彩！</p><p>00:46 秀场音乐界唯一的哥，老佛爷Karl Lagerfeld御用音乐总监：Michel Gaubert</p><p>3:40 6万张CD，5万张黑胶，十几个AirPods，顶尖音乐总监的自我修养</p><p>5:17 懂王Raf Simons，拖延症Phoebe Philo，不同设计师定秀场音乐的方式大不同</p><p>6:43 为了Fendi长城大秀开阔壮丽的景色连夜修改秀场音乐 （Kurt个人觉得很难听，不代表本节目观点）</p><p>9:43 绝大多数的秀场音乐还是用现成音乐制作而成的，除非你像LV一样有钱，或者像Balenciaga一样有情</p><p>14:12 重大利好：DJ出身的音乐人对于掌控现场氛围有天然优势，退休DJ再就业又添出路</p><p>17:20 Lemaire设计师本人和音乐总监Pilooski曾是背靠背DJ的兄弟，偷摸着在爱马仕秀上放过Suicide</p><p>21:32 Lemaire其实私下狂爱J Dilla，他听过的神秘歌曲居然连Madlib都没听过</p><p>27:11 在火车站举办的Lemaire 20FW大秀，从音乐到秀场都充满电影感</p><p>32:48 Lemaire 23SS邀请音乐人Ana Roxanne现场表演，声音空灵，非常梦幻</p><p>39:07 如果Lemaire来中国挑音乐人当品牌挚友，你会推荐谁？</p><p>44:02 图书馆音乐（library music)是失败者音乐收容所吗？</p><p>47:33 Thom Yorke帮rag&bone和Undercover做秀场音乐，把Creep变慢100倍算艺术吗？</p><p>53:46 成为音乐总监的成功三要素</p><p>56:11 秀场音乐是挖掘新音乐的捷径</p><p>1:12:48 fruity shop会成为更适合中国宝宝体质的Maison Kitsuné 吗？</p><p>1:16:29 一人说一场音乐最让人印象深刻的秀</p><p>Music cues:</p><p>07:50 - 08:30 Fendi 08 Great Wall mix</p><p>20:39 - 21:32 Hermes 14SS Suicide - Girl</p><p>29:38 - 31:37 Lemaire 20FW Vince Taylor - Rock n Roll Station / Vanishing Twin - Eggs</p><p>33:48 - 34:55 LemaIre 23SS Ana Roxanne - I’m Every Sparkly Woman</p><p>39:55 - 41:00 Knopha - Gym A</p><p>49:50 - 50:36 Undercover 21FW Thom Yorke - Creep</p><p>51:13 - 52:27 Rag & Bone 15FW Music by Thom Yorke</p><p>58:04 - 59:14 Dries Van Noten 20FW Michelle Gurevich - Party Girl</p><p>60:00 - 61:05 Lemaire 22SS Broadcast - Tender Buttons</p><p>63:02 - 64:23 Dior Homme 0and 07AW These New Puritans - Navigate</p><p>79:00 - 81:00 Ami 23FW Aksumi - Fleeting Future, Moses Sumney - Doomed (Live)</p><p>84:21 - 85:10 Amiri 23AW Nas - N.Y State of Mind (Feat. DJ Premier)</p><p>86:55 - 88:20 Celine 21 The Loom - Time Slip</p>
March 17, 2023
DS004：秀场音乐，从入门到精通（上）
<p>万众期待的秀场音乐特辑终于来了！</p><p>本期节目特地邀请来两位时装与音乐双修的全才嘉宾：音乐制作人Kurt（豆瓣ID：kurttheripprt），和最近沉迷买碟的莎莎（微博：莎老师Sarah），为大家详细拆解秀场音乐里的门道，从选曲秘辛到边角八卦，你感兴趣的方方面面，他们都知道！</p><p>只要你热爱时装或者音乐，那么就有99%的可能性会享受这期节目。Enjoy！</p><p>02:46 时装品牌的秀场音乐是谁来定的？</p><p>04:55 疫情之后的秀反而更好看了？</p><p>06:10 Louis Vuitton FW22 Men, Arthur Verocai和Tyler, the Creator带来巴西味儿溢出的华丽弦乐</p><p>10:41 Louis Vuitton FW23 男装引入客座设计师Colm Dillane，思维方式“莞莞类卿”，非常Virgil</p><p>14:22 Louis Vuitton FW23 男装秀上Rosalía的演出酣畅淋漓，像演唱会+Sleep No More</p><p>16:04 热烈的拉美音乐为什么会在崇尚冷淡的时尚圈获得青睐？</p><p>20:14 为什么秀场偏爱Techno / Rock，而Funk / Soul / Hip Hop / House却“像山东媳妇上不了台面”？</p><p>23:04 Off-White FW22，Virgil请来底特律著名Techno DJ Jeff Mills坐镇</p><p>27:10 Louis Vuitton SS23阿那亚大秀邀请了国内乐队Sleeping Dogs——一支能演出正宗巴西味儿的老北京乐队</p><p>（PS：我们通过友人向Sleeping Dogs求证得知，是在LV男装音乐与声音总监Benji B的力荐之下才有了这次合作）</p><p>32:25 时装圈最有名的音乐发烧友：Raf Simons</p><p>33:29 Prada FW23 Men选用了池田亮司的音乐，极致minimal</p><p>35:49 Richie Hawtin（aka. Plastikman）与Raf Simons的壁花男孩友谊</p><p>38:27 Richie Hawtin为Prada FW21制作的音乐强调重复与沉浸</p><p>40:36 Raf Simons个人同名品牌对音乐的引述会不会太直给了一点？</p><p>43:33 不会吧不会吧，不会有人不喜欢David Bowie吧？</p><p>46:16 Maison Martin Margiela FW89，让时装摆脱肤浅骂名的一场秀。拼贴感极强的秀场音乐来自Frédéric Sanchez制作的mix。</p><p>52:04 安特卫普，很亚</p><p>54:00 即便是Dries Van Noten，也难逃爱上David Bowie的宿命</p><p>57:39 Dries Van Noten用Kylie Minogue为整个安特卫普的时髦人士注入脑虫</p><p>1:00:50 Dries Van Noten FW21选用了Massive Attack的歌，音乐与衣服、舞者三位一体，极度刺激消费欲</p><p>1:07:53 彩蛋：Dries Van Noten的葬礼上居然想放这首歌？？！</p>
February 4, 2023
DS003：年度时尚盘点 | 2022再也不见
<p>这是一期气氛欢乐、质地湿润（就是干货没平时多的意思）的年终盘点节目。</p><p>2022着实是吊诡的一年，但仔细盘点盘点时尚圈还是发生了不少大事儿的，一起跟着jiazhi和老郭一起回溯一下8~</p><p>01:26 最让人印象深刻的流行趋势之Miu Miu 露胃</p><figure><img src="https://image.xyzcdn.net/FkAT4aQ48ye_5JP38TZ6t-hgl_ps.png"/></figure><p>Nicole Kidman穿露胃装</p><figure><img src="https://image.xyzcdn.net/Flg86VakIyOSekvgom2rHFrYqANW.webp"/></figure><p>9：01 Nicole Kidman给The Perfect Magazine拍的大片，完美到像人类的原型</p><figure><img src="https://image.xyzcdn.net/FgRhqQ7QTSXwfnw25xdRcGnXhSAb.jpeg"/></figure><p>11:03 末日幻想是不是快过去了</p><p>18:14 2022最精彩的秀场之Y/Project 2022 Fall</p><figure><img src="https://image.xyzcdn.net/FltNcvZg5W-OpiOvnXbj5JTAqGMR.jpeg"/></figure><figure><img src="https://image.xyzcdn.net/FkV476vNCwn4TzoCf_v4YUA9Ih_C.jpeg"/></figure><p>20:01 jiazhi买的那件毛衣+巴拉克拉法帽</p><figure><img src="https://image.xyzcdn.net/FqpkmqHIxBBm97FDzelM0oF90e3s.webp"/></figure><p>21:02 Glenn Martens为JPG设计的高定</p><figure><img src="https://image.xyzcdn.net/FvbVXG3cAm6FNPNYHnWoZ4mH1Hzu.jpeg"/></figure><figure><img src="https://image.xyzcdn.net/Fn-NhESC0CIjRUwC2NwND06v3R6t.jpeg"/></figure><p>24:23 Coperni喷出来的裙子</p><figure><img src="https://image.xyzcdn.net/Fm-PVA7397oQMH3VpuqofI9yUxLa.jpeg"/></figure><p>28:56 最丑绝人寰趋势：Moon Boots</p><figure><img src="https://image.xyzcdn.net/FnuZssF_-s-yl27Jn7KyY14TVk8q.jpeg"/></figure><p>32:35 Diesel的logo</p><figure><img src="https://image.xyzcdn.net/Fn9-gUJFEwZcCnhftEzPsMO6G1iw.jpeg"/></figure><p>32:57 最江郎才尽设计师之Alessandro Michele</p><p>34:27 Demna是不是也要过气了</p><p>36:36 时尚圈大事件之Tik Tok的兴起，让一大堆以-core结尾的微趋势诞生</p><p>45:57 时尚的本质在于消耗，这样的行业能环保得了吗？</p><p>54:55 Ye的陨落</p><p>56:41 2022离开的巨匠</p><p>Mugler yyds</p><figure><img src="https://image.xyzcdn.net/Fh6IT_Te-59e4koB-b7EhpIUWGoh.webp"/></figure><figure><img src="https://image.xyzcdn.net/FrLjlh2HE8BSqn7ubvPFFK4A1aL7.jpeg"/></figure><p>Issey Miyake：Origami</p><figure><img src="https://image.xyzcdn.net/FgdpzETcLtUjhveTgV5VGd7HmB6c.jpeg"/></figure><p>Vivienne Westwood</p><figure><img src="https://image.xyzcdn.net/FqZq8SISXAdAm31ZqfQ_4kxeAh7o.webp"/></figure><p>59:24 2022买到的最满意的时尚单品之——</p><p>老郭的Diesel牛仔裤</p><figure><img src="https://image.xyzcdn.net/FpbgWleWvZpfnT1TpCoeQ_3Fy7pa.jpeg"/></figure><p>jiazhi的bad binch tongtong圆盘裙和Rick Owens希腊女神裙</p><figure><img src="https://image.xyzcdn.net/FsmPu1L_1ah6NeWX3J6GttwomD-a.jpeg"/></figure><figure><img src="https://image.xyzcdn.net/FgW7Qm-DOBKWas3mDPNfbD0bbfIB.jpeg"/></figure><p>1:01:33 2022小红书时尚之老钱风/财阀千金风/美式校园甜心风/时髦知识分子风</p><p>1:09:03 超敏感话题之文化挪用</p>
5 total episodes available
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