Stories from two seasons as a Tundra Buggy driver in Churchill, Manitoba—polar bears, frigid conditions, remote work, mechanical improvisation, and the rules that shaped life at the edge of Hudson Bay.
Living at Cape Churchill, with constant evening parties, close quarters, no time off, and the same people, was as exhausting as it was exhilarating.
18 Aug 2026
Styrofoam
The old truck we used to take garbage to the dump was probably from the 1950’s.
18 Aug 2026
Sick Dog
A dog breeder just outside of town was well known for keeping and breeding Eskimo Dogs.
18 Aug 2026
The Safari
Tundra Buggy Tours were known as much for their eponymous vehicles as for the polar bears.
18 Aug 2026
Transmission
In my second year in Churchill, I was doing summer tours, which were typically small.
18 Aug 2026
Seaweed
The tide was out and the low-tide zone along Hudson Bay made for pretty good driving.
18 Aug 2026
Tire Repair
Tundra Buggy tires are actually large agricultural tires.
17 Aug 2026
Night Tour
Polar bear season lasts only about 6 weeks, from early October to about mid-November.
17 Aug 2026
Summer Tours
Summers were quiet in Churchill.
17 Aug 2026
Parking
Tundra Buggy parking wasn’t really parking; it was closer to docking a space capsule.
17 Aug 2026
Sit & Wait
For some people, seeing a polar bear in the wild wasn’t enough; they had a checklist of bear behaviours as well as other arctic wildlife that they wanted to see.
16 Aug 2026
Refuelling Tundra Buggies
Refuelling tundra buggies meant leaving the safety of the vehicle—and discovering how quickly a polar bear could close the distance.
16 Aug 2026
Arrival
Arriving in Churchill for the first time, at the meeting point of taiga, tundra, and Hudson Bay.
15 Aug 2026
Notes from a Tundra Buggy Driver 1996-1997
For two seasons in 1996 and 1997, I worked as a driver and guide for Tundra Buggy Tours in Churchill, Manitoba.
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