

- 15
- Episodes
- Monthly
- Cadence
- 2026
- First episode
About Keep Those Props Turning Podcast
Join John Buckles and Jeff Schnable as they talk through practical tips and insights to keep you flying, not grounded.
- Publisher
- John Buckles and Jeff Schnabel
- Category
- education
- Language
- en
- Explicit
- No
- First episode
- 8 May 2026
- Latest episode
- 16 Oct 2026
Latest episodes
15 episodes in the feed.

16 Oct 2026
Cut Open Your Oil Filter Every Time You Change It
Most pilots change their oil filter and throw it away without ever looking inside -- and that's a habit that can hide a developing engine problem until it's expensive. John and Jeff walk through why opening up a used oil filter is part of the real maintenance process, not an optional extra. They cover how the filter's internal relief valve works (both on Tempest and Champion filters), why that matters when the filter media starts to clog, and why FAA guidance and the engine OEMs -- Continental and Lycoming -- expect the filter to actually be cut open and examined, not just swapped. They also get into what a healthy filter looks like inside versus one that's telling you something is wrong. The practical takeaway: a $16 filter cutter and two minutes with a magnet and a baking tray will tell you more about your engine's health than just watching the oil drain out ever will. In this episode, we cover: - Why oil screens and twist-on filters both need to be opened and inspected, not just replaced - How the bypass/relief valve inside a filter protects the engine -- and why that's not a free pass to skip inspection - The 30-50 hour rule of thumb for how often to change your filter - A cheap, effective tool (an Amazon filter cutter) for opening filters safely - What to look for in the pleated media: metal, slivers, or chunks - Why Lycoming owners should also be pulling and inspecting the finger screen in the sump - How to log and compare what you find oil change to oil change, including taking photos and bagging particulate for later comparison Get in touch! Web - SignatureEngines.com Email - Podcast@SignatureEngines.com YouTube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfaCQMkJRkLQ-MUg2kwHy2A

9 Oct 2026
Your New Glass Panel Is Probably Reading Wrong -- Here's Why
A shiny new digital panel is only step one -- if nobody comes back to calibrate it against real-world fuel and temperature readings, you're flying on bad data. Jeff and John talk about the gap that opens up after a pilot spends $30,000 to $100,000 on a glass panel or digital gauge upgrade. Getting the unit installed and powered on is the hard part everyone focuses on, but the installer's paperwork almost always calls for a follow-up step: fly a set number of flights under specific conditions, track actual fuel burned, and report back so the shop can fine-tune the equipment. Plenty of pilots never realize that responsibility exists, so they fly for months or years on readings that were never actually verified against reality. Sensor accuracy problems aren't limited to old, tired wiring either. Brand-new installations can have bad sensors right out of the box, a bent pin, or contamination that throws off cylinder head temp, exhaust gas temp, or fuel flow readings from day one. The fix is a simple trust-but-verify routine: physically measure fuel burned over a flight or two and compare it against what the gauge shows, then go back to the installer to adjust the k-factor if the numbers don't line up. That check isn't a one-time thing after installation -- it needs to happen periodically, especially if any avionics or engine work gets done somewhere other than an aircraft's home base. In this episode, we cover: - Why finishing the installation is only half the job for new digital avionics - The verification step most pilots skip: flying test legs and comparing actual fuel burned to indicated fuel flow - What a k-factor is and why it's the critical link between your fuel sensor and an accurate gauge reading - Why brand-new sensors can be inaccurate right out of the box, not just aging ones - The ongoing responsibility to re-verify instrumentation periodically, not just once after install - Why upgrades done away from your home airport need a clear plan for who does the final calibration - The trust-but-verify habit every pilot with digital gauges should build into their routine Get in touch! Web - SignatureEngines.com Email - Podcast@SignatureEngines.com YouTube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfaCQMkJRkLQ-MUg2kwHy2A

2 Oct 2026
Your Aircraft's Oil Capacity Might Be Wrong -- Here's How to Check It
The oil capacity printed in your engine's manual isn't necessarily the number you should be flying by -- your specific airframe and sump can change everything. Jeff and John break down why stated oil capacity varies even between aircraft with the "same" engine model, because sump design and installation differ by airframe. They walk through a real example with IO-360-DB engines: Continental rates the system at 10 quarts, but at 25 degrees of pitch up or down, only about 7 quarts are actually available to the pickup tube. Push that same aircraft to a more extreme attitude and usable oil can drop to around 4 quarts, which is enough to start sucking air and burning up bearings. The FAA type-certification testing that lets manufacturers claim a lower minimum was done with the engine sitting flat, not pitched, which is exactly the gap that catches experienced operators off guard. The fix they recommend is simple but often skipped: fill to the full stated capacity, fly a pattern or two, then check the dipstick and mark that level as your aircraft's natural full point going forward. They also flag a hazard that's easy to miss -- dipsticks get swapped between aircraft with supposedly identical engines, but a different airframe cant or tail-dragger geometry means the same stick can read wrong. And a "minimum oil quantity" from the manufacturer isn't a cushion for a cross-country leg; it's a signal to land and address it now. In this episode, we cover: - Why published oil capacity numbers can be misleading once sump configuration and airframe attitude are factored in - The IO-360-DB example: a "10-quart" engine that only delivers about 7 usable quarts at 25 degrees of pitch - How usable oil can drop to roughly 4 quarts at more extreme attitudes, risking oil starvation - How to find your aircraft's true natural oil level: fill to capacity, fly a pattern, then mark the dipstick - Why dipsticks aren't interchangeable between aircraft, even with the same engine model - What "minimum oil quantity" actually means: land and address it immediately, not a cushion to fly on - Why a little oil on the belly isn't automatically a problem, and what to watch for instead Get in touch! Web - SignatureEngines.com Email - Podcast@SignatureEngines.com YouTube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfaCQMkJRkLQ-MUg2kwHy2A

25 Sept 2026
Lean of Peak: How Fast Fuel Savings Can Melt a Piston
Lean of peak operation can save real money on fuel, but done aggressively it can melt a hole straight through a piston in under a minute. John and Jeff trace lean of peak (LOP) operation back to its roots in World War Two, when crews leaned aggressively just to stretch fuel far enough to get home, with zero regard for what it did to the engine. Today the motivation is different -- fuel running $8 to $12 a gallon -- but the mechanical risk hasn't gone away. Manufacturers like Continental and Lycoming publish specific LOP settings, often around 50 degrees lean of peak below 65% power, and Jeff has no problem running an engine at those numbers if the OEM has done the research. The danger shows up when a pilot sets a lean mixture, then gets a climb instruction from ATC, pushes the power in, and forgets to adjust the mixture back. That mismatch can push an already-lean cylinder into a damaging condition in as little as 30 to 45 seconds, often with no warning on the gauges before it's too late. They walk through real examples from the shop floor: pistons with a sandpaper-textured surface from vaporizing aluminum, crowns and rings burned clean through, and an engine with a pre-existing induction leak that ran one cylinder lean until it failed. The conversation closes on gauge accuracy -- a CHT or EGT sensor that reads "calibrated" from the factory says nothing about whether it's still accurate once it's installed and flying, which means a pilot leaning to 50 degrees LOP could actually be at 100 without knowing it. In this episode, we cover: - Why LOP operation started as a WWII wartime fuel-stretching tactic, not a maintenance-friendly practice - What manufacturers actually publish: Continental and Lycoming LOP settings for use below 65% power - The real danger: forgetting to adjust mixture after a power change and suddenly running dangerously lean - Real damage examples from the shop, including sandpaper-textured pistons and burned-through rings - How fast it happens: engine damage from an overly lean condition can occur in as little as 30-45 seconds - Why your gauges might be lying to you, and why sensors and cables need periodic recalibration - The bottom line on LOP: not inherently bad, but it demands constant attention to power and mixture changes Get in touch! Web - SignatureEngines.com Email - Podcast@SignatureEngines.com YouTube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfaCQMkJRkLQ-MUg2kwHy2A

18 Sept 2026
Ground Leaning: The Takeoff Mistake That's Cooking Your Cylinders
Leaning the mixture on the ground seems harmless, but forgetting to enrich it back before takeoff is one of the fastest ways to cook a cylinder head. John and Jeff dig into ground leaning, a habit a lot of pilots pick up to smooth out a rough-running engine at idle or head off spark plug fouling. Jeff makes the case that if your idle mixture and RPM are set correctly, there's no real need to lean on the ground at all -- and he's never had a lead-fouling problem from skipping it. The bigger issue is what happens when a pilot leans for taxi comfort, then forgets to push the mixture back to full rich before rolling onto the runway. Cylinder head temps can climb into the 400-425 degree range within seconds of a lean takeoff, and by the time it shows up on the gauges, the damage is already underway. From there they walk through mixture management for the rest of the flight: setting cruise mixture off the POH by manifold pressure and RPM, holding off on descent leaning until around 5000 feet in a normally aspirated engine, going full rich again by pattern altitude, and letting the engine idle and stabilize for a minute before shutdown so a turbocharged engine's hot section has time to cool. In this episode, we cover: - Why ground leaning isn't necessary if idle mixture and RPM are set correctly - The real risk: forgetting to go full rich before takeoff and overheating cylinders in the climb - How to recover if you take off lean: communicate with the tower, level off, and don't just push through it - Why the auxiliary/boost fuel pump is a safety backup for takeoff and landing, not a performance switch - POH-based leaning for cruise: setting mixture by manifold pressure, RPM, and target fuel flow - Why lead fouling on the plugs is overblown as a reason to lean on the ground - Descent and shutdown mixture management, including letting the engine stabilize before you cut it off Get in touch! Web - SignatureEngines.com Email - Podcast@SignatureEngines.com YouTube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfaCQMkJRkLQ-MUg2kwHy2A

10 Jul 2026
Camshafts and Lifters - What Wears, What Fails, and What to Do About It
Metal in your oil filter is not a diagnosis -- it's the start of an investigation, and for piston engines, the camshaft and lifters are usually the first place to look.John holds up actual worn parts and walks through what a healthy lifter looks like versus one with pitting, corrosion, and a worn-through hardened face. Once the hardened steel surface on a flat-tappet lifter breaks down, soft metal is riding against the camshaft lobe and both components are eating each other. He explains the design difference between Lycoming and Continental lifters -- T-shaped flat tappets on top for Lycoming, barrel-style lifters at the bottom for Continental -- and why Continental gives you the advantage of pulling lifters without splitting the case. He also addresses the roller lifter question directly: they're not a cure, they cost four to five times as much, and in high-cycle engines they can fail just as badly as flat tappets, just in a different way.The episode covers what owners should actually ask their mechanics when camshaft wear is suspected. A single borescope pass isn't enough -- there are multiple lobes, and a partial inspection misses the ones that matter. Oil analysis can flag the presence of metal but can't tell you where it's coming from until you start disassembling. Jeff and John walk through the diagnostic sequence: oil analysis, rocker cover inspection, pushrod movement, and what it takes to actually confirm the diagnosis. They also explain when replacing lifters without touching the camshaft is a reasonable interim option -- and when it's just delaying an overhaul that's already necessary.In this episode, we cover:- How camshaft lobes and lifters work together in Continental and Lycoming engines- Why a borescope inspection of the camshaft can give you a false sense of security- The progression from pitting and corrosion to total lobe failure -- and how fast it happens- Flat-tappet vs. roller lifters: cost, failure modes, and whether roller is actually an upgrade- The Continental advantage: replacing lifters without an engine teardown -- and its limits- Diamond slurry lifters and whether they offer any real protection compared to standard flat tappets- How to read oil analysis results when you suspect camshaft or lifter wear- When replacing lifters is a legitimate interim fix vs. a Band-Aid that delays the real repairGet in touch!Web - SignatureEngines.comEmail - Podcast@SignatureEngines.comYouTube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfaCQMkJRkLQ-MUg2kwHy2A

3 Jul 2026
Cooling Your Aircraft Engine in Hot Weather — 4 Things Pilots Skip
On a 90-degree day, your engine is already warm before you start it -- and how you handle takeoff, climb, and shutdown can mean the difference between a healthy engine and a damaged one.Jeff walks through the specific things that change in hot weather operations: why you open the cowl flaps before takeoff, why climbing at a slightly higher airspeed matters, and why reducing power marginally during climb keeps cylinder head temps in check when airflow is lowest. He covers what happens when you push a turbocharged engine hard and then shut it down immediately -- the oil cooks against the hot turbine, and the next thing you know, the turbo is gone. John adds the ground perspective: letting the engine stabilize at idle before shutdown, monitoring oil temp for that first drop as an indicator that the oil is actually cooling the internals rather than cooking in them. The line guy's impatience is your problem, not theirs.The conversation also covers cold-weather mistakes that put just as much wear on the engine. Owners who run up at high RPM trying to force the engine to temperature faster are generating friction heat before there's enough oil moving through the system to handle it. John explains why idle and patience is the correct technique -- and why you should record which accessories are on during runup because unnecessary electrical load during a hot-day cool-down only adds heat you don't need.In this episode, we cover:- Why hot weather changes your climb profile -- and what speed adjustment helps the engine most- Cowl flaps: when to open them, when to close them, and what they're actually doing- How to cool a turbocharged engine properly before shutdown -- and what happens if you don't- Reading oil temperature as your indicator that the engine has actually cooled before you shut down- What to say to ATC if you need to level off mid-climb for engine cooling- Why running at high RPM in cold weather is one of the most common ways owners damage their engines- How friction heat during cold-weather runup differs from combustion heat -- and why oil needs time to circulate first- When to turn off accessories during cool-down and why electrical load affects engine temperatureGet in touch!Web - SignatureEngines.comEmail - Podcast@SignatureEngines.comYouTube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfaCQMkJRkLQ-MUg2kwHy2A

26 Jun 2026
Hobbs vs Tach Time & SMOH — Aircraft Engine Hours Explained
Mixing up hobsmeter time and tach time is one of the most common sources of confusion in aircraft maintenance records -- and when it goes unresolved, it costs owners money and obscures the real condition of the engine.John breaks down the difference between the two gauges, why they're not interchangeable, and what happens when a mechanic or owner has been flip-flopping between them for years without documenting which one was used. The tachometer measures engine use; the hobs measures how long the master switch has been on. For maintenance purposes, tach time is what drives decisions about overhaul intervals and AD compliance. Jeff explains what to do when a gauge is replaced, fails, or doesn't match prior entries -- and why "estimated" and "unknown" are legitimate and important entries when the true time can't be substantiated. Leaving a time gap unexplained is far worse than flagging it accurately.The conversation gets into time since major overhaul (SMOH) and total time since new (TSN) -- what both mean, how to read them on an overhauled engine versus a first-run engine, and what a remanufactured engine serial number actually tells you. John explains why knowing SMOH is the most critical number when deciding whether to repair or fully overhaul an engine, and what the Continental and Lycoming recommended intervals actually represent.In this episode, we cover:- The functional difference between a tachometer and a hobsmeter -- and which one to use for engine maintenance- Why flipping between tach and hobs time in logbook entries creates confusion and red flags- What to document when a gauge is replaced or fails mid-ownership- When to write "estimated" or "unknown" in a logbook entry -- and why that is the right call- Time since major overhaul (SMOH) vs. total time since new (TSN) -- how to read both- What a remanufactured engine serial number means for Continental and Lycoming engines- Why high total time since new is not the same as a worn-out engine- How SMOH drives repair vs. overhaul decisions at Signature Engines00:00:41 Introduction -- why tach vs. hobs matters00:02:41 How entries should note time and which gauge to use00:05:27 What to do when you only have one gauge00:06:50 Documenting gauge replacements and time gaps in the logbook00:09:21 When "estimated" and "unknown" belong in a logbook entry00:10:30 Time since major overhaul vs. total time since new00:13:27 Remanufactured vs. overhauled -- what zero-time actually means00:16:12 How many times can an engine be overhauled?Get in touch!Web - SignatureEngines.comEmail - Podcast@SignatureEngines.comYouTube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfaCQMkJRkLQ-MUg2kwHy2A

19 Jun 2026
Engine Logbook vs Airframe Logbook — What Belongs in Each
Incomplete or vague logbook entries don't just cost you money at resale -- they can expose you to liability for work done on an aircraft you haven't owned in a decade. John and Jeff walk through how aviation logbooks actually work: the three types (pilot, airframe, engine), what entries should say and why, and the red flags that tell an experienced mechanic something went sideways. They explain the difference between "engine removed for inspection" and an entry that actually tells you what happened -- and why that difference matters when you're the next buyer, the inspector signing it off, or the previous owner when someone gets hurt. Jeff describes a recurring pattern he sees on pre-buy inspections: engines with entries that say just enough to look compliant but leave the real story out. John explains why owners sometimes push mechanics to document less -- and why that strategy backfires.The episode gets specific about what pilots and owners are actually responsible for. Airworthiness directives, their recurring intervals, and how to read an AD list vs. a blanket "all ADs complied with" sign-off. What belongs in the aircraft during flight versus what should stay in a safe. The difference between a prop strike that was handled correctly and one that was quietly buried. And the concept of vicarious liability -- why your documentation obligation doesn't end when you sell the plane.In this episode, we cover:- The three types of aviation logbooks and what each one should contain- Why "engine removed and reinstalled" is one of the biggest red flags in any logbook- How to spot a prop strike or sudden stoppage that wasn't properly addressed in the records- What AD compliance entries should actually say vs. the generic sign-offs that hide problems- Why owners sometimes push for minimal documentation -- and the liability exposure that creates- The difference between records you must carry in flight and original documents that belong in a safe- How vicarious liability works in aviation and why it can follow a previous owner for 10-20 years- What a well-organized logbook looks like to a mechanic walking in cold for a pre-buy00:00:31 Introduction -- logbook confusion and the three types00:03:37 What mechanics look for on pre-buy inspections00:05:30 Why minimal documentation is a liability trap00:08:06 How ADs reference historical maintenance and why complete records matter00:09:09 What to keep in the aircraft vs. what to store safely00:13:16 Vicarious liability -- your obligation doesn't end at sale00:16:43 The inspector as last line of defense -- when work can't be signed offGet in touch!Web - SignatureEngines.comEmail - Podcast@SignatureEngines.comYouTube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfaCQMkJRkLQ-MUg2kwHy2A

12 Jun 2026
Is Your Checklist Actually Protecting Your Engine?
Send us questions by commenting below or emailing John & Jeff at: Podcast@SignatureEngines.com Is Your Checklist Actually Protecting Your Engine? Following your aircraft checklist isn't optional — and skipping a single step like mixture full rich on takeoff can send cylinder head temperatures past 400° before you've leveled off. John and Jeff walk through the checklist habits that actually protect your piston engine. In this episode, John Buckles and Jeff Schanbel talk through the operating checklist the way two mechanics see it from the shop floor — not as paperwork, but as the difference between a healthy engine and a damaged one. They cover why leaning the mixture during taxi keeps spark plugs from carbon fouling, why pushing the mixture full rich before takeoff is the step pilots forget most often, and what high CHT on climb is really telling you. They also get into engine startup discipline, why running up to high RPM right after start beats up the engine, and why turbocharged airplanes need cooldown time at idle before shutdown — not a quick mag check and mixture cut. The bigger theme: most of the engine problems they see trace back to pilots being in a hurry. Move controls slowly, monitor the engine the same way you monitor your flight instruments, and if temperatures or pressures start climbing on takeoff, level off and troubleshoot before pressing on to altitude. You don't have to declare an emergency to tell ATC you need to stay low and sort something out. In this episode, we cover: - Why mixture full rich is the checklist item pilots most often miss before takeoff - How a missed mixture step can push CHT over 400° in a fast climb - Why leaning during taxi reduces spark plug fouling and carbon buildup - What to do when CHT or oil pressure starts climbing during initial climb - How to talk to ATC about leveling off without declaring an emergency - Why high-RPM operation right after startup damages the engine - Why turbocharged engines need idle time before shutdown - The checklist habits that prevent gear-up landings and engine damage alike This one is for owners and pilots who want their engine to make TBO — and who know that the checklist hanging in the cockpit is the cheapest maintenance tool they own. TIMECODES 00:00 The checklist step pilots skip most often 00:32 What to review before you start the engine 01:16 Why mixture full rich before takeoff matters 01:52 How fast CHT climbs past 400° when you forget 02:14 Don't assume you know the checklist — read it every time 02:40 Why rushing the shutdown damages your engine 03:35 Gear-up landings, GUMPS, and why checklists exist 03:53 Move engine controls slowly, every time 04:14 Turbocharger cooldown before shutdown 04:49 If temps rise on climb, level off and assess 05:20 Monitor the engine like you monitor your instruments 06:03 Telling ATC you need to level off without declaring an emergency Get in touch! Web - SignatureEngines.com Email - Podcast@SignatureEngines.com YouTube - youtube.com/@SignatureEnginesInc

5 Jun 2026
How to Keep a Post-Flight Discrepancy Log
Send us questions by commenting below or emailing John & Jeff at: Podcast@SignatureEngines.com How to Keep a Post-Flight Discrepancy Log Most engine problems don't show up overnight — they trend. Keeping a simple post-flight discrepancy log is how you catch them before they ground you, or worse. John and Jeff walk through the habit they wish every owner and pilot would adopt: at the end of every flight, write down what you noticed. A new noise, a vibration, a temperature that ran a little higher than normal — or nothing at all. Even "none noted" with the date and your initials is worth writing, because it gives the next pilot and your mechanic a baseline to compare against. The guys explain why this matters most on aircraft with multiple pilots, where nobody wants to be the one to "make it a thing," and how that silence lets small issues turn into expensive ones. Jeff shares a real example: a young pilot who heard a popping sound out of the left engine for about two months and brushed it off — until they pulled the cowling and found an exhaust stack hanging an inch and a half loose. Hot exhaust gases that close to a wiring harness can melt insulation and kill power to the engine, and a stack that fully breaks loose becomes a hazard on the ground. The fix, caught early, would have taken minutes. By the time it was found, it was a near miss. The episode is about building the awareness and the paper trail that catches problems while they're still cheap. In this episode, we cover: - Why a written post-flight squawk log beats relying on memory - What to write when nothing went wrong (and why "none noted" matters) - How trending small symptoms reveals real engine problems - The communication gap on multi-pilot aircraft, and how to close it - A real-world case: a popping sound that was a hanging exhaust stack - What can go wrong when an exhaust stack hangs near a wiring harness - Why looping in your mechanic — or another mechanic — pays off - How to give your A&P the history they need to actually diagnose an issue If you fly behind a piston engine, this is one of the cheapest habits you can build to keep your airplane airworthy and yourself safe. TIMECODES 00:00 The post-flight habit nobody wants to do 00:27 Why "I think I felt this 3 months ago" is too late 01:18 What to write down — even when nothing happened 02:08 The multi-pilot communication problem 03:23 The popping sound that was a hanging exhaust stack 05:16 What a loose exhaust stack can actually do to your engine 06:00 Call your mechanic — or another mechanic Get in touch! Web - SignatureEngines.com Email - Podcast@SignatureEngines.com YouTube - youtube.com/@SignatureEnginesInc

29 May 2026
How to Preflight a Piston Engine the Right Way
Send us questions by commenting below or emailing John & Jeff at: Podcast@SignatureEngines.com How to Preflight a Piston Engine the Right Way A real preflight inspection is more than opening the oil door and checking the dipstick. John and Jeff walk through what they actually look for before every flight — and what most pilots miss. Vibration is the number one enemy of a piston aircraft. Motor mounts crack, components loosen, and parts break between flights. A magneto that ran fine yesterday can be dead today. You won't catch all of it on a walkaround, but you'll catch a lot more than you think if you slow down and know where to look. John and Jeff start under the aircraft — looking for fresh oil, fuel, or hydraulic leaks on the ramp or hangar floor — then work up through the cowl, the propeller, the intakes, and the belly. They talk through the bird nests and mud dauber nests that show up after the plane sits, why a piece of cardboard under the airplane is one of the cheapest diagnostic tools an owner can have, and why a constant-speed propeller deserves more than a glance. Then they move into the cockpit, where checking the throttle, mixture, and prop control for freedom of movement before start can flag a problem before you ever turn the key. In this episode, we cover: - Why looking under the aircraft is the first step, not the oil door - How to tell normal seepage from a developing leak using a piece of cardboard on the hangar floor - What mud daubers and birds get into — breather tubes, carb intakes, pitot — and how to spot the trail - Why you should open the cowl when you can, and what to look for when it's open - How to check a constant-speed propeller for leaks and security on preflight - Why the windscreen, nav lights, and landing lights matter even on a day VFR flight - What a sticky throttle, mixture, or prop control can tell you before engine start - Why a magneto can fail between flights and how the runup catches what the walkaround can't A thorough preflight inspection is the cheapest insurance an owner has — and the difference between catching a problem on the ramp or finding it in the air. TIMECODES 00:00 The preflight habits that separate good pilots from bad ones 00:36 Why most pilots only check the oil and stop there 01:02 Start under the aircraft: looking for oil, fuel, and gear leaks 01:21 Open the cowl when you can — what breaks between flights 02:12 Vibration, motor mounts, and why piston aircraft parts fail 02:31 Inspecting the propeller and checking the intakes for nests 03:00 Mud daubers, birds, and what shows up after the plane sits 04:11 Using cardboard under the aircraft to track leaks over time 04:54 Don't skip the windscreen, nav lights, and landing lights 05:28 In-cockpit preflight: throttle, mixture, and prop control freedom Get in touch! Web - SignatureEngines.com Email - Podcast@SignatureEngines.com YouTube - youtube.com/@SignatureEnginesInc

22 May 2026
How to Inspect an Aircraft Oil Filter the Right Way
Send us questions by commenting below or emailing John & Jeff at: Podcast@SignatureEngines.com Why Oil Analysis Alone Won't Save Your Engine Oil analysis is an indicator, not a verdict on airworthiness. John and Jeff break down why the report is just one tool, and what you have to do alongside it to actually know what's happening inside your engine. More owners and pilots are leaning on oil analysis like it's the final word on engine health. It isn't. Both Lycoming and Continental tell you to inspect the oil filter — cut it open, flush the media, run a magnet through it, and look at what your engine is actually shedding. John and Jeff walk through the full routine: how to take an oil sample correctly (always midstream, never the first or last of the drain), why letting the drained oil settle in a clean five-gallon bucket and filtering the last bit through a coffee filter tells you what's really sitting in the sump, and why pictures of every filter and screen inspection beat trying to remember what last quarter looked like. They cover the difference between ferrous and non-ferrous debris, why a high iron reading after a winter of sitting often just means corroded cylinder walls getting scraped clean, and the Lycoming brass bushing AD covering engines built between 2009 and 2015. They also get into the part most owners skip entirely — the finger screen — and why it catches the big chunks an oil filter never will. If your filter has a bypass valve and you're making metal between long oil changes, that material can route straight to your bearings without you knowing the bypass ever opened. In this episode, we cover: - Why oil analysis is an indicator, not an airworthiness determination - How to take an oil sample correctly — midstream of the drain, every time - Cutting open the oil filter, flushing the media, and running a magnet through the debris - Letting drained oil settle and filtering the last 5% through a coffee filter to see what's really in the sump - Why you need to photograph every filter and oil inspection, not rely on memory - Telling ferrous from non-ferrous debris and what each suggests - Why finger screens catch failures the oil filter will miss - The Lycoming brass bushing AD on engines built 2009–2015 and why you watch the oil for brass - How shorter oil change intervals reduce the risk of the filter bypass dumping debris into your bearings For piston aircraft owners who want to catch problems early instead of being surprised by them — this is how you actually read what your engine is telling you. TIMECODES 00:00 The oil sampling mistake that wrecks your data 00:38 Why oil analysis is an indicator, not airworthiness 01:35 How to inspect your oil filter the right way 02:28 Reading what's left in your drained oil 03:20 When elevated readings don't mean engine trouble 04:07 The catastrophic failure oil analysis missed 05:17 Taking samples midstream and staying consistent 05:55 High iron after winter — what it usually means 06:48 What chrome, nickel, aluminum, and molybdenum tell you 07:39 Lycoming and Continental limits on filter debris 08:12 Saving filter elements in baggies for comparison 08:51 Why finger screens still matter and why mechanics skip them 09:39 Filter, screen, or both — what to inspect and why 10:31 The Lycoming brass bushing AD (2009–2015 engines) 11:14 What the finger screen catches that the filter won't 11:37 Why the filter bypass valve is the hidden risk Get in touch! Web - SignatureEngines.com Email - Podcast@SignatureEngines.com YouTube - youtube.com/@SignatureEnginesInc

15 May 2026
How Often Should You Change Aircraft Engine Oil?
Send us questions by commenting below or emailing John & Jeff at: Podcast@SignatureEngines.com How Often Should You Change Aircraft Engine Oil? The 50-hour aircraft engine oil change interval in your POH was written for flight schools flying constantly — not for the owner who flies a few hours a month and parks the plane. John and Jeff break down what the book actually says and what most owners miss. Aircraft engine oil isn't automotive oil. It's only about 6 to 7% additives compared to 13 to 16% in conventional auto oil, and those additives — the ones fighting moisture, acids, sludge, and carbon — start breaking down around 20 to 25 hours. After that, the oil still lubricates, but it's no longer protecting the inside of your engine from the corrosion cycle that runs every time the crankcase heats up and cools down. That's how camshaft and lifter pitting starts on Lycomings, and it's why John and Jeff see rust inside engines from owners who swear they fly regularly. The piece almost everyone overlooks is the calendar rule: change the oil every four months regardless of hours. Two hours on the engine in four months still means it's time. The hosts walk through why "regular use" isn't ten hours in one trip followed by three weeks parked, why active preservation only happens in the air at temperature, and why the difference between a 30-hour and 50-hour oil change is one extra change per 100 hours — cheap insurance against an engine teardown. In this episode, we cover: - Why the 50-hour interval was written for flight schools, not typical owners - The 4-month calendar rule in the POH and what it actually requires - How aircraft oil additives break down by 20 to 25 hours - Why aircraft oil is only 6 to 7% additives versus 13 to 16% in automotive oil - How condensation, acids, and the crankcase greenhouse effect cause internal rust - Why camshaft and lifter pitting hits both Lycoming and Continental engines - Why ground runs and taxiing don't count as active preservation - The 30 to 35 hour oil change recommendation and pulling the filter every 100 If you fly less than 200 hours a year, this episode helps you stop a corrosion problem before it turns into a top overhaul. TIMECODES 00:00 What the POH 4-month oil change rule actually says 00:30 Is the 50-hour oil change interval right for your flying? 01:33 Why aircraft oil only has 6 to 7% additives 02:42 How rust starts inside engines that "fly regularly" 04:18 Why 30-35 hour oil changes are cheap insurance 05:16 What "regular use" really means for piston engines 06:22 Humidity, condensation, and the crankcase greenhouse 07:16 Camshaft and lifter pitting on Lycoming vs Continental 08:11 Final recommendation: 30-35 hours, every third change pull the filter Get in touch! Web - SignatureEngines.com Email - Podcast@SignatureEngines.com YouTube - youtube.com/@SignatureEnginesInc

8 May 2026
How to Properly Drain Oil From Your Aircraft Engine Sump
Send us questions by commenting below or emailing John & Jeff at: Podcast@SignatureEngines.com (mailto:Podcast@SignatureEngines.com) How to Properly Drain Oil From Your Aircraft Engine Sump If you own a prop plane and you've never pulled the quick drain out of your oil sump, you might be hiding water, metal, and sludge at the bottom of your engine — and getting clean oil analysis reports that aren't telling you the truth. In this first episode, John and Jeff break down the quick drain valve — the threaded plug at the bottom of the oil sump that lets you connect a hose and drain oil without making a mess. It's one of the most common parts on small piston aircraft, and one of the most misunderstood. They explain why the convenience comes with a catch: the plug threads stick up an eighth to a half inch into the sump, creating a dam that traps water, heavy metals, and combustion byproducts below the drain level. That trapped material sits there change after change until it finally rises high enough to come out, which is often when an owner suddenly sees red and yellow flags on an oil analysis report that looked fine for years. They walk through the right maintenance rhythm for general aviation piston engines: use the quick drain for routine oil changes every 30-35 hours, but every third change — roughly every 100 hours — pull the entire valve out of the sump with the warm oil still in there and let the volumetric pressure flush the bottom clean. They also cover when to replace the plug entirely (every 4-5 years, around $100-$130), why the FAA no longer permits overhauling them, the safety-wire hole most people miss, and one real-world story of a socket found blocking a customer's drain. In this episode, we cover: - Why the quick drain plug threads create a sludge trap at the bottom of your sump - The 100-hour rule for fully removing the quick drain, not just draining through it - How a partially blocked quick drain skews your oil analysis results - What to do with the warm oil still in the engine when you pull the plug - Why the FAA stopped allowing overhauls of quick drain valves - The 4-5 year replacement interval and what a quality replacement costs - Why the safety wire hole on the plug matters and what happens if you skip it - Signs your quick drain seal is failing — slow drips, slow drains, rounded threads This one's for prop plane owners and pilot-mechanics who want their oil analysis to actually mean something, and who'd rather spend $100 on a new plug than find out the hard way what a failed one does in flight. TIMECODES 00:00 Why You Should Pull Your Quick Drain Every 100 Hours 00:26 Welcome to Keep Those Props Turning 00:35 What a Quick Drain Is on a Prop Plane Engine 01:44 The Socket in the Sump and Other Quick Drain Failures 02:13 How Quick Drain Threads Trap Water and Metal in Your Oil 03:00 Why Your Piston Aircraft Oil Analysis Suddenly Shows Red Flags 03:52 The Right Way to Drain Oil Every 100 Hours 04:06 Drain Hole Diameter and How It Affects Oil Flow 04:48 When to Replace Your Quick Drain Valve and What It Costs 05:36 Why the FAA No Longer Allows Quick Drain Overhauls 06:05 Safety Wiring Your Quick Drain Plug 06:39 What Happens If a Quick Drain Fails in Flight Get in touch! Web - SignatureEngines.com Email - Podcast@SignatureEngines.com YouTube - youtube.com/@SignatureEnginesInc
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