The Micro Collector is a podcast about the people behind today’s most interesting microbrand watches.
Hosted by Justin Dorfman, a lifelong watch enthusiast and microbrand collector, the show features in-depth conversations with founders building independent watch brands around the world — from pre-launch projects to established microbrands with years of experience.
Each episode focuses on the why behind the watch: the ideas, inspirations, and decisions that shape the final product. Conversations explore design philosophy, mechanics, materials, tradeoffs, and the realities of turning an idea into something you can wear on your wrist.
Whether you’re a collector, a watch enthusiast, or considering launching your own microbrand, The Micro Collector offers a real-world look into what it takes to build a modern microbrand watch.
Reviving Nivada Grenchen & Vulcain and Building SpaceOne | Guillaume Laidet
Guillaume Laidet is one of the key figures behind the modern revivals of Nivada Grenchen and Vulcain, while also co-founding something completely new with SpaceOne.
In this episode of The Micro Collector, Guillaume shares his journey from working at Zenith and Jaeger-LeCoultre to launching his first brand, William L. 1985 — and what he learned when that business went from early success to excess inventory, supplier debt, and having to let his team go.
We get into how those lessons shaped the revival of Nivada Grenchen, what makes a heritage brand worth bringing back, how collector feedback has influenced product decisions, and when a revived brand earns the right to move beyond its archives.
Guillaume also talks about reviving Vulcain, why Excelsior Park proved more difficult, and why he believes independent and microbrand watch companies are gaining ground as the traditional groups continue pushing prices higher.
We then dive into SpaceOne — how it came together with independent watchmaker Théo Auffret, how quickly the brand has grown, and the story of a €1.2 million Kickstarter campaign that effectively disappeared overnight.
We also discuss what’s coming next for Nivada Grenchen, Vulcain, and SpaceOne.
If you enjoy the episode, be sure to subscribe for more conversations with the founders, builders, and operators behind independent and microbrand watch companies.
Chapters
00:00 Intro
01:27 Meet Guillaume Laidet
02:37 From vintage watches to Zenith and Jaeger-LeCoultre
07:00 Building — and nearly losing — William L. 1985
10:08 The idea to revive Nivada Grenchen
12:06 Why Nivada was a strong revival candidate
14:15 Letting collectors help shape the product
17:48 Reviving Vulcain and the challenge of Excelsior Park
21:08 When does a heritage brand move beyond its archives?
23:16 Is there still room for more watch brand revivals?
24:18 Why independents are gaining ground on the big groups
28:52 How SpaceOne came together
33:16 The €1.2M Kickstarter disaster
38:17 How the crisis tested the SpaceOne partnership
40:00 What comes next for Nivada, Vulcain & SpaceOne
Learn More About Nivada Grenchen
Website: https://nivadagrenchenofficial.com/ (https://nivadagrenchenofficial.com/)
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nivadawatches/ (https://www.instagram.com/nivadawatches/)
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/NivadaGrenchenOfficial/ (https://www.facebook.com/NivadaGrenchenOfficial/)
TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@nivada.grenchen (https://www.tiktok.com/@nivada.grenchen)
Learn More About Vulcain
Website: https://vulcain.ch/ (https://vulcain.ch/)
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/vulcain_watches/ (https://www.instagram.com/vulcain_watches/)
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/vulcainwatches?_rdc=1&_rdr# (https://www.facebook.com/vulcainwatches?_rdc=1&_rdr#)
Learn More About SpaceOne
Website: https://spaceonewatches.com/ (https://spaceonewatches.com/)
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/spaceonewatches/ (https://www.instagram.com/spaceonewatches/)
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ArgonWatches (https://www.facebook.com/ArgonWatches)
TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@spaceone.watches (https://www.tiktok.com/@spaceone.watches)
#nivadagrenchen #vulcain #spaceonewatches #microbrandwatches #independentwatchmaking
5 Oct 2026
Designing Watches That Make You Look Twice | Wolfgang Heinrich, HEINRICH Watches
Wolfgang Heinrich is the founder of HEINRICH Watches, a German microbrand inspired by the bold watch design of the 1970s while developing a distinctive identity of its own.
In this episode, Wolfgang shares how he got into watches and eventually built HEINRICH around a simple philosophy: create watches with enough character to make you look twice, while still being something you can wear every day.
We talk about launching his first watch through Kickstarter, why he later moved away from crowdfunding, and what that taught him about building a direct relationship with customers. We also dive into the evolution of the HEINRICH collection, his design process, unusual materials including stone and American football leather, and how he balances vintage inspiration with creating something original.
Wolfgang also explains the importance of German watchmaking to the brand, why he invested in bringing a full-time master watchmaker into the business, and his decision to open a showroom in Stuttgart while remaining focused on a direct-to-consumer model.
If you enjoy the episode, subscribe for more conversations with the founders and operators behind today’s microbrand and independent watch companies.
Chapters
00:00 Introduction
01:03 Wolfgang’s Journey Into Watches
03:56 Lessons From His First Watch Brand
08:23 Creating a Distinctive Design Language
11:29 Launching the First Watch on Kickstarter
14:04 Moving Beyond Kickstarter
21:27 Inside the HEINRICH Collection
27:34 Evolving the Design Process
32:44 German Watchmaking & Bringing a Watchmaker In-House
38:17 Opening a Showroom & Staying Direct-to-Consumer
41:55 Closing
Learn More About HEINRICH Watches
Website: https://heinrich.watch/ (https://heinrich.watch/)
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/heinrichwatches (https://www.facebook.com/heinrichwatches)
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/heinrichwatches (https://www.instagram.com/heinrichwatches)
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@WolfgangHeinrich (https://www.youtube.com/@WolfgangHeinrich)
#heinrichwatches #microbrandwatches #germanwatches #independentwatchmaking #watchdesign
28 Sept 2026
How an Aerospace Engineer Is Reimagining Watchmaking | Mickey Brown, Parivas
Mickey Brown came to watchmaking from a very different world.
A mechanical aerospace engineer by training, Mickey spent years working with additive manufacturing and designing lattice structures for aerospace applications. At the same time, watches had always been deeply personal to him, tied to a family tradition shared with his father and brother.
Eventually, those two worlds came together to create Parivas.
In this episode of The Micro Collector, Mickey shares the six-year journey behind the Exo.1 and why the team had to wait years for additive manufacturing technology to reach the level of refinement they believed watchmaking demanded.
We go deep into how the Exo.1 is actually made, from its monolithic lattice case and integrated indices to the subtractive machining that follows the printing process. We also explore the customized movement and precision program developed with the Horological Society of New York, the unexpected Solar Dusted finish, and why Mickey and the team assemble and test the watches themselves.
We also talk about what it means to enter watchmaking without knowing the traditional rules, how Parivas is building trust around a $7,500 watch from a new brand, and why Mickey believes additive manufacturing could open up an entirely new design landscape for watches.
Chapters
00:00 Introduction
01:23 Meet Mickey Brown and Parivas
03:12 Mickey’s personal connection to watches
05:24 From aerospace engineering to Parivas
09:48 Why the Exo.1 took six years to develop
12:49 Building the Parivas founding team
15:58 Additive manufacturing and how the Exo.1 is made
21:56 The movement and precision chronometer program
26:53 Discovering the Solar Dusted finish
31:05 Why Parivas assembles and tests watches in-house
33:27 The advantage of not knowing the rules
38:23 Building trust around a $7,500 watch
42:06 The era of additive watchmaking
Learn More About Parivas
Website: https://parivas.com/ (https://parivas.com/)
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/parivas_watches/ (https://www.instagram.com/parivas_watches/)
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/parivaswatches (https://www.facebook.com/parivaswatches)
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@parivas (https://www.youtube.com/@parivas)
TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@parivas_watches (https://www.tiktok.com/@parivas_watches)
If you enjoy the episode, subscribe for more conversations with the founders and operators behind some of the most exciting microbrands and independent watch companies.
#microbrandwatches #independentwatchmaking #watchmaking #watchcollecting #parivas #additivemanufacturing
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