by Jinni Xia
<p>A glimpse into everything behind world of competition climbing.</p><p>Hear from setters, organizers, athletes, and everyone in between to learn about this fast-growing sport!</p><p>For further discussion, check out the comp climbing Discord at <a href="https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp">https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp</a>.</p>
Language
🇺🇲
Publishing Since
7/2/2023
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0 available
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April 28, 2025
<p>So you all probably know who she is, but just in case you don’t, Shauna is a British climber, 2-time bouldering world cup season winner, Olympian, mom, and nowadays she’s still ticking off hard climbs outdoors. In this episode, we’ll learn about how not excited she was to compete in the Olympics, why she has an issue with the word “retirement,” and of course, the difficulty of managing climbing during and after pregnancy both socially and physically.</p><p></p><p><strong>Guest links</strong>:</p><p><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://www.instagram.com/shaunacoxsey/">Shauna’s Instagram</a></p><p></p><p><strong>Reference links</strong>:</p><p><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://forgedequipmentltd.com/pages/foxy-holds">Foxy Holds</a></p><p><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://www.womensclimbingsymposium.com/">Women’s Climbing Symposium</a></p><p></p><p>Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://madrock.com/">https://madrock.com/</a></p><p></p><p>Learn more about the podcast at <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="http://www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com">www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com</a></p><p>Follow on Instagram at <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast">https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast</a></p><p>Join the FREE community in Discord! <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp">https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp</a></p><p>Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="http://patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast">www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast</a></p><p></p><p><strong>Timestamps of discussion topics</strong></p><p>0:00 - Intro</p><p>1:36 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!</p><p>2;23 - Running climbing clinics</p><p>6:18 - Being the "calm" comp climber</p><p>9:16 - The nightmarish path to Tokyo Olympics</p><p>14:39 - How she started climbing + competing</p><p>17:59 - Team GB then vs now</p><p>19:52 - The evolving comp and social media game</p><p>28:54 - IFSC Athlete's Commission Goals</p><p>34:38 - DISCORD Q: Are we actually moving the needle with RED-S testing</p><p>37:39 - Personal eating disorder experience</p><p>43:35 - The issue with the word "retirement"</p><p>48:37 - DISCORD Q: How do you mentally deal with training that used to work well but now doesn't?</p><p>50:58 - The TRUTH about "having fun"</p><p>53:28 - Best comp memories </p><p>58:42 - Managing climbing while pregnant</p><p>1:07:32 - DISCORD Q: What was the most helpful postpartum training exercise? </p><p>1:12:05 - Thoughts on pulling a Jain Kim?</p><p>1:20:44 - Current goals: Outdoors and more kids??</p><p>1:25:16 - DISCORD Q: Thoughts on climbing sponsorships and Adidas sponsorship ending</p><p>1:31:36 - DISCORD Q: Do you still try to prioritize being well-rounded now that you're no longer a comp climber?</p><p>1:34:25 - DISCORD Q: Your most controversial climbing opinion?</p><p>1:37:07 - Words of wisdom + where to find Shauna</p>
April 7, 2025
<p>Chaz is a blind paraclimber from team Canada and is in the B3 category, meaning he has about 10% of his sight left. What’s crazy is that he didn’t start climbing until after he lost his vision! In this episode, we’ll learn about his rocky journey losing his vision at 32 years old and struggling with alcoholism, how to lead belay blind, and hear some surprising stories about run-ins with famous climbers that he doesn’t know because he can’t “watch” climbing content.</p><p></p><p><strong>Guest links</strong>:</p><p><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://www.instagram.com/theblindexplorer/">Chaz’s Instagram</a></p><p></p><p><strong>Reference links</strong>:</p><p></p><p>Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://madrock.com/">https://madrock.com/</a></p><p></p><p>Learn more about the podcast at <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="http://www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com">www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com</a></p><p>Follow on Instagram at <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast">https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast</a></p><p>Join the FREE community in Discord! <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp">https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp</a></p><p>Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="http://patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast">www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast</a></p><p></p><p><strong>Timestamps of discussion topics</strong></p><p>0:00 - Intro</p><p>1:58 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!</p><p>2;27 - Intro/healing from surgery</p><p>7:49 - Chaz's impairment and how he started climbing</p><p>13:16 - Losing sight later in life</p><p>26:16 - Lead belaying blind</p><p>36:21 - Visually impaired climbing without a caller</p><p>38:07 - First time competition climbing...getting dumped...bro code broken?!</p><p>43:25 - Climbing + calling with Alannah Yip</p><p>46:37 - Accidental run-ins with the most famous comp climbers</p><p>52:38 - Lack of accessibility with climbing content</p><p>57:17 - Feeling unsafe on the wall</p><p>1:03:24 - Hiding his disability</p><p>1:07:37 - 2028 Paralympics</p><p>1:14:54 - Climbing blindfolded</p><p>1:18:02 - Me complaining about outdoor climbing + why he loves outdoor climbing</p><p>1:23:42 - Playing blind hockey</p><p>1:25:59 - More of me complaining about outdoor climbing + what is real climbing</p><p>1:28:57 - Blind ice climbing</p><p>1:31:12 - Being an inspiration for his son</p><p>1:33:47 - Blind hockey show and tell</p><p>1:41:46 - IG Q: How long does it take to get in sync with your caller?</p><p>1:42:54 - IG Q: Does speed climbing work well for blind people?</p><p>1:49:26 - DISCORD Q: Would paraclimbers want to compete in bouldering?</p><p>1:55:25 - Words of wisdom + where to find Chaz</p>
March 24, 2025
<p>Tijl is currently the IFSC Europe president but he is now running for the president of IFSC with elections taking place in April. In this episode, we’ll learn about how IFSC politics works, hear about the changes he wants to make within the IFSC, and get his take on some hot topic issues like national federation quotas, RED-S testing, and the NEOM games.</p><p></p><p><strong>Guest links</strong>:</p><p><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://www.instagram.com/tijlsmitz/">Tijl’s Instagram</a></p><p></p><p><strong>Reference links</strong>:</p><p><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/general-assembly/25-lar/elections/index">Info on elections and candidates</a></p><p></p><p>Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://madrock.com/">https://madrock.com/</a></p><p></p><p>Learn more about the podcast at <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="http://www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com">www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com</a></p><p>Follow on Instagram at <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast">https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast</a></p><p>Join the FREE community in Discord! <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp">https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp</a></p><p>Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="http://patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast">www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast</a></p><p></p><p><strong>Timestamps of discussion topics</strong></p><p>0:00 - Intro</p><p>1:27 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!</p><p>2:16 - Climbing, coaching, and IFSC history</p><p>5:50 - Coaching the Belgian team</p><p>10:56 - How IFSC Presidency works </p><p>15:11 - Moving on from the Olympics</p><p>18:53 - Changes Tijl wants to see in the IFSC</p><p>24:43 - Increasing funding through Eurosport and routesetter education</p><p>33:25 - HOT TOPIC: Big names taking a break from world cups</p><p>38:38 - HOT TOPIC: New national federation quotas for world cups</p><p>41:38 - HOT TOPIC: RED-S Policy Implementation</p><p>48:20 - HOT TOPIC: NEOM Games</p><p>50:15 - DISCORD Q: What changes do you think we'll see to the World Cup format?</p><p>56:40 - DISCORD Q: Plastic vs rock preference?</p><p>1:00:47 - Words of wisdom + where to find Tijl</p>
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